
Edelspatz, botrytis grapes & porcini mushrooms
At Delheim, fungi are our friends. Why, you may ask? Because the most delicious epicurean delights are provided by these bizarre and little-understood organisms. Yeasts, moulds and mushrooms inhabit a biological kingdom all of their own, and are, strangely enough, classed as being closer to animals than plants.
Botrytis cinerea
First on our list must be botrytis, also known as “noble rot”. Delheim has had an almost perfect development of botrytis this year; in fact, arguably the best ever. For those of you who know and love Delheim’s ‘special late harvest’ wines, expect 2010 to be an award-winning vintage for the Edelspatz and Spatzendreck!
Although there are many legends and apocryphal tales, nobody really knows when the romance between the grape and this fungal organism began. Stories are told of a delayed harvest in Hungary because of an impending invasion by the Turks in 1650 resulting in the disaster of rot in the vineyard, or in 18th century Germany, a messenger conveying permission to begin harvesting, granted by the distant Prince Abbott, failing to reach the estate in time. However it really came to pass, the delicious late harvest and dessert wines resulting from botrytis were born.
Bunches of botrytised grapes are grossly unappealing to the eye, having progressed from a healthy golden hue to become a mass of brown, shrivelled berries, peppered with the fungal growth necessary to create the texture and unique and desirable honey, toast and apricot flavour profile of a botrytised wine. It must have taken an enormous leap of faith for those early winemakers to ferment such a harvest! Fortunately they did; and the rest, as they say, is history.

Botrytis at Delheim - 2010 vintage
Boletus edulis
Next up is Boletus edulis, a mushroom commonly known by the Italian name “porcini”, meaning “piglets”. This derivation has been ascribed to the resemblance of the young mushrooms to baby pigs, or perhaps to the fondness pigs have for eating them! Interestingly enough, they have never yet been successfully cultivated, and so we are very fortunate at Delheim to have our very own wild crop. Known as the “king” of wild mushrooms, the fruit body consists of a large and imposing brown cap which can reach an incredible 25 cm in diameter and 1 kg in weight.
Boletus edulis is one of Providence’s great gifts to humanity, a rich, heady, meaty mushroom that is amazingly versatile; delicate enough to give grace to an elegant stew or sauce, and yet vigorous enough to stand up to something as flavourful as a thick grilled steak accompanied by a robust red wine.
Porcini even look the way a mushroom should: a corpulent firm white stalk and a broad dark brown cap – if you’re out walking in the forest and come across a clump under a chestnut tree, where they’re often found, you may well think you’ve stumbled into a fairy tale and look about for gnomes.

Nora Sperling Thiel with Boletus Edulis
Prized as an ingredient in various foods, held in high regard in many cuisines, sought after by mycophagists (that’s “mushroom eaters” to you and me) all the world over, porcini are commonly prepared and eaten in soups, pasta, and risotto. Contrary to most things delicious, this mushroom is even good for your health; low in fat and digestible carbohydrates, and high in protein, vitamins, minerals and dietary fibre.
Described by renowned Italian chef and restaurateur Antonio Carluccio as representing “the wild mushroom par excellence“, hailing it as the most rewarding of all fungi in the kitchen for its taste and versatility, come to Delheim’s restaurant to sample this divine autumnal delicacy in a Chardonnay & cream sauce with tagliatelle and Parmesan @ R75.
Bookings at Tel: 021 888 4607 or e-mail restaurant@delheim.com.